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6/08/2014

Burda Dress #119 and #120

I have a hate/ love relationship with Burda patterns. There are so many wonderful Burda patterns that I don't know where to start sometimes. Yet it drives me nuts that the seam allowances aren't included. Really, it can't be that hard to include it. I have one year of Burda Magazine laying around and only tried two patterns so far. One was a total failure. I bought so many different tools for adding seam allowances, I stopped counting. 

These patterns aren't even in any of my magazines, instead I bought them from the website. I am so in love with these dresses. Even though they both were a total pain to make. The instructions are not for beginners!

The first one is the short version #119







The fabric I used is a satin stretch from Fabric.com

The bodice fits very good, the skirt could have been smaller. It's not too bad, and I don't thing others even notice. 








The second version is the long dress #120

The fabric is the same as for the short version, just another color. I would like to make another long version out of this Silk Crepe in Crushed Berry



This is my second go on the pattern, and since the bodice fit was very good I thought I would just make the skirt part one size smaller. I thought myself very smart by instead of tracing it again in a size smaller to just leave out the seam allowances. I should know that these "genius" ideas of mine always end up in total disaster. 

My mind set I went ahead and cut out the whole dress without adding seam allowances. So wrong!
It ended up being too small, of course, and I had to use a 1/4 seam allowance to make it work. That didn't gave me enough to work with to finish the SA in a nice way. So no shots from the inside of the dress. In this version I omitted the sleeves all together and opted for bias finished armholes.

One thing I don't like about this pattern is how they have the mock wrap dress band attached. It's all sewn on by hand on top of the finished dress.





Pattern Description:
This wrap effect dress with empire waist line is super flattering on the bustline. The cap sleeves and knee-length hemline makes this dress perfect for a cocktail party!

This long wrap dress emphasizes your waistline to create a flattering silhouette. It has a wrap style and 3/4 length sleeves with a lovely bow.
Pattern Sizing:
38 - 46 (European sizes)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very sparse and confusing at times. Some steps are explained with only one sentence, but understitching the seam allowance to the facing is a whole paragraph, instead of just writing "understitch the seam allowance"
I would not recommend the dress due to the instructions to beginners. One should have constructed a couple of garments before. Also because of the fabrics recommended.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I don't like that Burda doesn't include the seam allowances in their patterns. In general their instructions are poorly written. The mock wrap band is attached completely by hand sewing it on the finished dress.
Fabric Used:
Stretch Satin (polyester) from Fabric.com
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The long version has bias finished arm holes instead of sleeves.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would like to sew it again in silk
Conclusion: 
I love the two dresses, but it is not an easy make. Nevertheless I will make it again in silk.



Kommentare:

Lady Stitcher hat gesagt…

Gorgeous dresses! I've actually stopped buying the Burda magazine until I make some of the things I've earmarked from earlier issues - the seam allowance issue totally puts me off. I know it's not hard to do (I've done it with some Japanese patterns) but it's been really putting this lazy gal off! Your dresses are fab, it's lovely to have some occasion wear that you sewed yourself.

Kathrin Hain hat gesagt…

Thank you! Now I just need an occasion to wear them ;)