Paper Pieced Pillow

This is my first paper piecing project. A pillow case for my youngest nephew. My plan for this year is to make one for each of my nephews/ niece for their birthdays. Of course a different picture for each. 

The pattern is from the website Fandom in Stitches. 

This particular pattern can be found here 

I enlarged the original pattern by 25%, and I am glad I did. It is the perfect size for a pillow. And I can't even imagine how much fiddly work it must be in the original size. This was bad enough. 

I am really glad I tried out paper piecing. It is a lot of fun to create pictures like this one. In the beginning I had a couple of pieces I had to throw away, because I started out correctly and then put on one piece the wrong way. It took a bit to get the hang of thinking upside down. But once I got it, it went really fast.

The rest of the pillow is pieced with leftover fabric from the picture. I am really happy that my nephew loves his new pillow. Four more to go! 

 I also have several ideas with a pillow for myself, a tote, a mini quilt, and the list goes on :)

Anna Dress - By Hand London

Woohoo! I finally have my own Anna Dress! I was drooling for months over all the wonderful versions found online. I traced it off the minute I picked it up from the mail, and within two days I had my very first Anna Dress. Why first? Because there will be many more to come. 

I consider this first version my wearable muslin. My measurements put me in a size 6/10. I cut it out and ,without any alterations, it fits perfectly. I love when that happens.

Now seeing myself in the pictures I don't think the quilting cotton makes it look too stiff, but I don't think I will make it again in this kind of fabric. It just calls for more drape. The stiff quilting cotton makes the sleeves stand out too much, which doesn't flatter my wide shoulders. But that is just a personal preference. I am also not too flattered about the length. It should be shorter. Next time I will make it either above knee or maxi length. Again, just a personal preference.

I will let my dress form model for the close up and the inside out view. Does anyone have an idea where to get a dress form stand from? Mine came without one, but also was dirt cheap because of that.

Something is off in this shot. The dress really isn't that crooked in real life.

All seams are finished with my serger. I thought the facing could have been a bit narrower. Something to change the next time. The side seams of the bodice should be finished before sewing the seams. It makes for a neater finish. 

It confused me a bit that they don't call for staystitching the neckline. Also there is no mentioning of understitching the facing. I did it anyway. Just a couple of things I have to put in my notes for the next version.

 Here a back view of the inside. Also the back seam is best finished before putting in the zipper. It is a very versatile and flattering dress. Easy and quick to make. 

I made already a second one in a polyester silk from JoAnn's, and are planning a maxi length version in cotton voile. Other ideas are adding a circle skirt. Oh, the possibilities!

Pattern Description:
An effortless dress featuring double pleats at the bust, kimono sleeves and a panelled a-line skirt. Variations include both slash and v-neck options, plus midi and maxi skirt possibilities and a dramatic thigh high split. Super quick and simple to make, cut it short for the perfect festival dress, or make it worthy of the red carpet with a maxi skirt and thigh high split. (from website)

Pattern Sizing:
2 - 16 (Bust 32" - 45")
I made a size 6 (true to my measurements)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, but I don't think I will make it again from quilting cotton. Rather stick to fabrics with some drape.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy instructions. There is a sew-along on their website Here

I was a bit surprised that there is no stay stitching of the neckline, or understitching of the facing.
 
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
There is nothing to dislike

Fabric Used:
Quilting Cotton
 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I understitched the facing (not mentioned in the instructions)
I would suggest finishing the seam allowances of the side seams before sewing the seam. Also finishing the back seam allowances before putting in the zipper. But that also depends on if one is lining the dress. 
No fitting alterations.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I highly recommend this pattern. It is very versatile (one could add another kind of skirt, like many have), and easy and quick to make. Very beginner friendly with a great outcome.

Conclusion:
I see many more Anna dresses in my future

Hawthorn Dress by Colette Patterns

This pattern was on my wishlist for a long time, so I was very happy to find it under the Christmas tree. I was visiting my older sister and her family on Bainbridge Island, WA over Christmas/New Years, and  they have a very nice fabric shop where I found this most amazing Italian Cotton on sale. I knew right away it would be perfect for this dress. It is lightweight with a beautiful drape. It is a black and purple herringbone weave. It shimmers differently depends on which way one looks at it. Very tough to photograph.

It looks good with petticoat...

...and without. Although I prefer the petticoat look.

The only change I made is I didn't interface the collar. Otherwise I made a size 2 without any alterations.

 All seams besides the waist seam are finished with black rayon seam binding. The waist seam is serged. I forgot why I didn't use the seam binding here as well.

Pattern Description: 

A semi-circle skirt provides volume without the extra bulk of pleats or gathers at your waist, so you get a clean, streamlined look that's still beautifully feminine. The bodice is fitted with waist darts, while still providing just enough room to keep things comfortable.

Pattern Sizing:

0 - 18 (Bust 33" - 46")

I made a size 2 according to my bust measurement and it fits perfectly.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very thorough and easy to follow instructions. They also offer a Sew-Along

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Nothing to dislike about this pattern

Fabric Used:

Italian Cotton in purple/black, lightweight, very nice drape

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I didn't interface the collar

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I did already sew it again, and I highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: 

Love this dress!

On my playlist

Sol Hoodie by Jamie Christina

Another finished knit project. It seems I have sewn only knit stuff the last couple of weeks. This is the Sol Hoodie pattern by Jamie Christina. I got it for my birthday last year and finally had a chance to print it out and make it. It is always so warm here in New Mexico and the winter is quite short, that I didn't feel like making something with long sleeves in the summer. But finally! 

This is the third pattern I made from Jamie Christina and so far I love them all. No alterations. They fit right away. My first pattern was the Abbey Coat. I will share the third project soon.

The fabric is an interlock knit from Fabric.com. The ribbon is by Anna Maria Horner.

I love the pink contrast to the red. In the instructions it says to add the ribbon before inserting the zipper. But that would mean part of the ribbon would be gone in the seam allowance. With this pretty (and expensive) ribbon I didn't want that. I added the ribbon after inserting the zipper. I just topstitched it on the hood and the front. But before adding the hood to the neckline.

I lined the hood with black flannel that I snapped up from my sisters stash :) Lining is optional.

 Here is an inside out view. I didn't serge the seam allowances. Since this knit doesn't fray I got a bit lazy finishing the seams.

 

Here is a close up of the finishing of the seam where the hood is attached. I had a little bit trouble with this one since the fabric is quite thick. I ended up using rayon seam binding to finish it. Doesn't look all that pretty. 

Pattern Description:
A zip up hoodie sewing pattern with features such as: cuffs with thumb openings, and fabric bands outlining the zipper and hood.

Pattern Sizing:
XS - XXL
I made a size XS

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy to follow. Lots of pictures and helpful tips for sewing with knit fabrics.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The only thing I didn't like is that according to the directions parts of the ribbon would be in the seam allowance of the zipper. I changed that by sewing the ribbon on after inserting the zipper.

Fabric Used:
Cotton Interlock from Fabric.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
As mentioned above, I topstitched the ribbon in place after inserting the zipper. That way the whole ribbon shows.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I highly recommend this pattern, if wearing a hoodie is your style that is. Very well drafted easy pattern.

Conclusion:
I love my hoodie and I will sew it again. Maybe a version without the zipper, as sweater.

Fitted Tunic/ Mini Dress Alabama Chanin Style

My finished Fitted Tunic/ Mini Dress in Alabama Chanin Style. The pattern is from the book 'Alabama Studio Sewing & Design'. I highly recommend it if you like this style and hand stitching. 

I made the basic version without any embellishment. Just a double layer of pink cotton interlock jersey from my stash. I am doing some serious stash busting here. It is a test version to check the size and fit. This is a size M in tunic length, but I think it works just fine as summer dress.

I am not sure if the wrinkles in the front seam are caused by using too much tension in the seam. Well, it is still wearable.

The same is going on on the lower end of the side seam. Practice, practice, practice!

It was surprisingly fast to assemble this tunic. Not much to say about the pattern. I have read some reviews of the Alabama Chanin pattern where people complain about the low neckline. That doesn't apply to me. I see no problem there. I must have some lucky build. I hardly ever have to change any pattern.

My cretan stitch to attach the binding is getting more even, so yay!

Here another close up of the binding. 

Pattern Description:

Fitted top in different lengths - shirt, tunic, mini dress, long dress.
From the book 'Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing & Design'
 

Pattern Sizing:

S, M, L, XL
I made a size M
 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes
 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The book give very clear instructions. All the techniques are explained very clear and thoroughly.
 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love all the patterns from the book. Some people complain about the low neckline, I don't.
 

Fabric Used:

Cotton Interlock Jersey
 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

No changes
 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

This is a test version without any embellishments. I will sew this again with stenciling etc. I recommend it.

Coco Dress by Tilly and the Buttons

The moment Tilly announced her Coco dress pattern I fell in love with it. What a cute casual dress. I especially love the sixties style funnel neckline. It also offers a shirt version, two different sleeve lengths, and optional pockets.

For my first version I cut out a size 3, but I think next time I will go for a size 2. It runs a little bit, at least with this fabric. It is a cotton interlock from fabric.com.

Here is the back view. I wonder if it will less wrinkle in a smaller size. Or maybe I have to make an alteration on the pattern after all. 

This shows those wrinkles in the lower back area pretty good, too. 

I am in love with the funnel neckline. The perfect casual dress. And since it has only five pattern pieces it is super easy and quick to sew.Very good for beginners with knit fabrics. 

I can't say this enough: knits are not hard to sew with. In a way they are actually easier than some wovens. No finishing of the seams necessary. Very forgiving, especially when setting in a sleeve, because this can be done before sewing the side seams.

 It looks a bit different on my dress form since the form is not yet padded to my exact measurements.

A closeup of the funnel neck. Love!!! I see more Coco dresses in my future.

Pattern Description:
Breton top or knit dress with multiple variations. Simple to sew, Coco is easy fitting, with no zips, buttons or other fiddly bits.
Designed for low-stretch knit fabrics, this classic style features a boat neckline, choice of top or dress lengths, three quarter length or long sleeves, with side splits at the hips on the top version. Make it your own with optional sixties funnel roll neck, rolled cuffs and patch pockets.

Pattern Sizing:
1 (30" bust) to 8 (44" bust)
I made a size 3, but will move down to a size 2 next time

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy instructions. She has a sew-along on her website

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Nothing to dislike about this pattern. It has only 5 pattern pieces, no closures, and is very easy to fit. I love the many choices the pattern offers, and especially the sixty style funnel neck.

Fabric Used:
Cotton Interlock

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't make any alterations

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will absolutely sew it again, and highly recommend it.

Conclusion: 
Perfect pattern for beginners, very good choice to start sewing knits.

Laptop sleeves

Last year a befriended couple asked me if I could make some sleeves for their laptops. They picked their own fabric and style. Here are the results, the only handmade Christmas presents 2013:

The print on this one was bigger than anticipated. With only one yard ordered I had some problems to fit the print properly, which led to some beheaded birds.

See that seam down the middle of the back? Let's better not talk about that one! It's rather embarrassing.

Luckily this one stayed intact, besides the velcro tape he is hiding behind.

This print was much easier to cut and fit on the pattern ;)

 

My second Monique dress

Just a couple of pictures of my second Monique Dress. You can read all about the first version with a review here.

I made both dresses within a week. In this second version I was able to finally tweak out the problem I had with the lining and the side seams not matching up.

The fabric is Whimsicol in Tide from Nordika by Jeni Baker

I love this border print! And my new red shoes ;)

I added black piping to accentuate the waistband.

Here a closeup of the piping.

 

And the inside of the dress. As with my first version I only lined the bodice. It's a 50/50 silk cotton blend.

Monique Dress by Sew Serendipity

It took me about a year to finish this dress, but finally it's done. I bought the pattern a year ago because I wanted a dress pattern designed for quilting cottons, and I immediately fell in love with her poppy version of this dress.

One of my favorite fabric designers is Anna Maria Horner, and when I saw this fabric I knew it had to be a casual summer dress. It's 'Turn of Events in Plum' from her Innocent Crush line.

 So why did it take me almost a year to finish this dress?

 After the pattern arrived I made the stupid mistake of not making a muslin. Turns out the pattern has a couple of errors in it. The darts don't line up as drawn on the pattern, and the front bodice is too long to fit on the back bodice on the side seams. It annoyed me so much finding that out after I cut into my nice fabric, that I just tossed it in a corner and didn't touch it anymore until a couple of days ago.

 

Luckily I had a lot of fabric left and just cut out the bodice part again. Since I don't like facings I decided to line the bodice with a 50/50 silk-cotton blend I had in my stash, and in the perfect matching color too. 

I also lengthened the bodice 1 1/4 inch. This pattern is designed for a 5.4" size and I am 5.7"

 I could have done a better job with the lining. Oh well, next time. The side seams still didn't match up, even after cutting the armhole of the front bodice piece bigger. That's why I had to serge the side seam, instead of having it encased in the lining.

Now that I tweaked out all the errors and fitting issues I am absolutely in love with this dress. I already made a second one which I will blog about later. 

Pattern Description:

The Monique Dress is a retro design with a fresh modern twist. Featuring a flattering neckline, raised waistline, and a full A-line skirt, this dress will make you feel so pretty! Options for a solid or pieced bodice and various fabric accents means you have a lot of opportunities to mix and mingle all sorts of fabrics. Add a dash of trim or a coordinating bit of fabric here and there and make your own unique creation!

Pattern Sizing:

Bust 32 - 44

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I didn't follow the instructions at all.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

After I got rid of the errors in the pattern I love it.

Fabric Used:
Main fabric: Quilting cotton
Lining: Silk cotton blend 50/50

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- lengthened the bodice 1 1/4"
- cut the armhole of the front bodice piece bigger so it would fit to the back bodice piece at the side seams
- moved the darts
- got rid of the facings by adding a lining to the bodice

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Now that I have a good fit I will absolutely sew it again. So many possibilities with all the wonderful quilting cotton prints.

Conclusion: 

I highly recommend making a muslin to figure out the errors in the pattern. After those errors are eliminated it is a wonderful pattern for a summer dress.

Simplicity 2614

First off I want to share my current favorite song with you. Jake Bugg performing his song "Broken".

Now to some sewing news. Simplicity 2614 is an out of print pattern, and I cannot recommend it enough.

Here are just a few tops I made from this pattern. As you can see, my favorite is version D. View B and C (without the tie) are definitely on my to-do list for fall. And whoever designed this pattern was a genius! I never had a facing, especially on a V-neck, fit that perfect, even with silky fabrics!

This version is a semi sheer polyester fabric with little black dots on it. Honestly I have no clue what kind of fabric this is. I don't bother writing down what kind of fabric I buy. Only when I buy it do I pay attention to the fiber content etc. This picture also shows the skirt made from some kind of knit fabric.

These two versions are made from Shot Cottons by Kaffe Fassett. Oh my god! That is some of the nicest fabric ever! The colors are astonishing, and sooooo soft with lots of drape. I just want to make everything out of Shot Cottons!

I bought this fabric at JoAnn's. It is for sure one of the nicer fabrics they carry. Such a soft hand and drape, and it feels amazing to wear.

But back to the pattern. First I had some fitting issues, nothing major though. According to my measurement I am a size 12, but a lot of times I have to go down a size because of the amount of ease in these patterns. With this one I traced a 10, and it would fit, but snug around the shoulder/back area. I can wear it, but it is slightly tight. So I traced a size 12 in the back/shoulders grading down to a 10 below the armholes. I used mainly soft draping fabrics, and due to the bias cut it sits perfect all around. In the past I had some issues with seemingly beautiful tops that turned out to look too boxy, even though made up in light fabrics. 

The heaviest fabrics I used are Cotton Couture by Michael Miller Fabrics. That is about the heaviest fabric I would recommend. Any other heavier fabric probably wouldn't drape enough and make the top look awful, especially in the back.

The top itself is sewn in an hour or two, depends on how fast one sews.

So far I made 10 tops, and I have some very nice chiffon waiting in my stash to be made up in one :)