Hawthorn Dress by Colette Patterns

This pattern was on my wishlist for a long time, so I was very happy to find it under the Christmas tree. I was visiting my older sister and her family on Bainbridge Island, WA over Christmas/New Years, and  they have a very nice fabric shop where I found this most amazing Italian Cotton on sale. I knew right away it would be perfect for this dress. It is lightweight with a beautiful drape. It is a black and purple herringbone weave. It shimmers differently depends on which way one looks at it. Very tough to photograph.

It looks good with petticoat...

...and without. Although I prefer the petticoat look.

The only change I made is I didn't interface the collar. Otherwise I made a size 2 without any alterations.

 All seams besides the waist seam are finished with black rayon seam binding. The waist seam is serged. I forgot why I didn't use the seam binding here as well.

Pattern Description: 

A semi-circle skirt provides volume without the extra bulk of pleats or gathers at your waist, so you get a clean, streamlined look that's still beautifully feminine. The bodice is fitted with waist darts, while still providing just enough room to keep things comfortable.

Pattern Sizing:

0 - 18 (Bust 33" - 46")

I made a size 2 according to my bust measurement and it fits perfectly.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very thorough and easy to follow instructions. They also offer a Sew-Along

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Nothing to dislike about this pattern

Fabric Used:

Italian Cotton in purple/black, lightweight, very nice drape

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I didn't interface the collar

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I did already sew it again, and I highly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion: 

Love this dress!

On my playlist

Butterick 5882

The glorious Butterick 5882! I can finally add my version to the Blogosphere. As always the last one on the train. But that's okay. Gives me lots and lots of inspiration to look at all the versions before I start my own. I actually bought this pattern long time ago when it was on sale at Hancock Fabrics for $2.99. Who doesn't love a bargain!

The fabric is Kaufman Essex Linen Blend La Femme. I knew immediately that I wanted this dress in this color combination, and I love the result. I am wearing a petticoat in this picture. The skirt really needs a petticoat, otherwise it just hangs there all sad.

A little droopy looking skirt without the petticoat.

Detail of the shelf folding. It is easier than it looks. There was some confusion about how Gertie meant the straps to be folded. I've seen some versions where the straps are folded differently (including Gertie's own version), but I stuck to the original design.

The bodice is lined with Polyester Crepe Back Satin. Leftover from my Colette Truffle Dress.

 The seam allowances are finished with rayon seam binding in cream. The boning has cotton casing and is sewn to the lining, as seen here.

 And here some action shots:

Pattern Description:

Lined dress has bias shoulder straps extending into band, bias pleated bra with stay, princess seams, close-fitting, boned bodice, inside belt, and back zipper.
 

Pattern Sizing:
4 - 20
 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes
 

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very clear step by step instructions. I had no problems. Inserting the boning was no problem.
 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the bust shelf style, and the swishy skirt
 

Fabric Used:

Kaufman Essex Linen Blend La Femme
Polyester Crepe back satin for lining of bodice

Metal wire boning with cotton casing

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made a straight size 10 without any fitting alterations. I didn't line the skirt.
 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would sew it again, and recommend it, provided one likes the style.
 

Conclusion: 

I love my new dress and have worn it already. It is very comfortable.

Petticoat in action

First with my Circle Skirt. I love how much fullness the petticoat gives the skirt.

And I just realize that I don't have feet in these first pictures. Well, isn't that a bummer.

 Here is finally a picture with me wearing my last year creation of the Colette Crepe Dress. With the petticoat of course. It's cotton lawn lined with white cotton lawn and voile.

 This is my seersucker version of the Colette Crepe Dress, also from last year. This one isn't lined.

Thanks Hugo for walking through the picture!

My first Petticoat

Just finished my first Petticoat. I used this tutorial by Sugardale. Thanks for posting!

 Here is a picture of the work in progress. Almost done gathering and pinning 8 yards of Tulle to a 4 yard strip. I bought the Tulle at Joann's for $1.49/yard. Next time I want to use Cotton Crinoline. But first I need a break from making Petticoats. It is just straight sewing, but for yards on end!

I do love the result thou. It was worth all the kneeling on the floor and gathering yard after yard. I used my newly bought used Walking Foot for this, and I have to say, I don't know how I made it so far without one. The straight stitch plate helped a lot too.

The pictures turned out too yellowish. Sorry for that. The Petticoat is actually really white.

The only thing I changed from the tutorial is the closure. The tutorial calls for hook and eyes. But I used snap buttons instead. It feels more closed that way :)