Anna Dress - By Hand London

Woohoo! I finally have my own Anna Dress! I was drooling for months over all the wonderful versions found online. I traced it off the minute I picked it up from the mail, and within two days I had my very first Anna Dress. Why first? Because there will be many more to come. 

I consider this first version my wearable muslin. My measurements put me in a size 6/10. I cut it out and ,without any alterations, it fits perfectly. I love when that happens.

Now seeing myself in the pictures I don't think the quilting cotton makes it look too stiff, but I don't think I will make it again in this kind of fabric. It just calls for more drape. The stiff quilting cotton makes the sleeves stand out too much, which doesn't flatter my wide shoulders. But that is just a personal preference. I am also not too flattered about the length. It should be shorter. Next time I will make it either above knee or maxi length. Again, just a personal preference.

I will let my dress form model for the close up and the inside out view. Does anyone have an idea where to get a dress form stand from? Mine came without one, but also was dirt cheap because of that.

Something is off in this shot. The dress really isn't that crooked in real life.

All seams are finished with my serger. I thought the facing could have been a bit narrower. Something to change the next time. The side seams of the bodice should be finished before sewing the seams. It makes for a neater finish. 

It confused me a bit that they don't call for staystitching the neckline. Also there is no mentioning of understitching the facing. I did it anyway. Just a couple of things I have to put in my notes for the next version.

 Here a back view of the inside. Also the back seam is best finished before putting in the zipper. It is a very versatile and flattering dress. Easy and quick to make. 

I made already a second one in a polyester silk from JoAnn's, and are planning a maxi length version in cotton voile. Other ideas are adding a circle skirt. Oh, the possibilities!

Pattern Description:
An effortless dress featuring double pleats at the bust, kimono sleeves and a panelled a-line skirt. Variations include both slash and v-neck options, plus midi and maxi skirt possibilities and a dramatic thigh high split. Super quick and simple to make, cut it short for the perfect festival dress, or make it worthy of the red carpet with a maxi skirt and thigh high split. (from website)

Pattern Sizing:
2 - 16 (Bust 32" - 45")
I made a size 6 (true to my measurements)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, but I don't think I will make it again from quilting cotton. Rather stick to fabrics with some drape.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy instructions. There is a sew-along on their website Here

I was a bit surprised that there is no stay stitching of the neckline, or understitching of the facing.
 
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
There is nothing to dislike

Fabric Used:
Quilting Cotton
 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I understitched the facing (not mentioned in the instructions)
I would suggest finishing the seam allowances of the side seams before sewing the seam. Also finishing the back seam allowances before putting in the zipper. But that also depends on if one is lining the dress. 
No fitting alterations.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I highly recommend this pattern. It is very versatile (one could add another kind of skirt, like many have), and easy and quick to make. Very beginner friendly with a great outcome.

Conclusion:
I see many more Anna dresses in my future

More Coco dresses

I made two more Coco dresses. And a fourth one is already cut out. 

The complete review of my first Coco Dress is here.

I got a bit of a sunburn there. The New Mexico sun is unforgiving. I swear I am using sunscreen. But my face isn't important here. Look at the dresses!

This is the perfectly adjusted version. The first version with the 3/4 sleeves is a size too big. 

For this one I cut a size 2 and cut out the armholes bigger. For that adjustment I usually just chop off a bit from the lower edge of the armhole after cutting out the pattern pieces. In this case I cut off 1/2. The size two sleeves still fit with a bit of stretching.  

 For this one I forgot to adjust the armholes and it is a bit snug around the shoulders and arms. What's with  armhole sizes anyway? Does everybody else have spaghetti arms?

Both fabrics are from Girlcharlee.com

Just a reminder to always wear sunscreen!

Fitted Tunic/ Mini Dress Alabama Chanin Style

My finished Fitted Tunic/ Mini Dress in Alabama Chanin Style. The pattern is from the book 'Alabama Studio Sewing & Design'. I highly recommend it if you like this style and hand stitching. 

I made the basic version without any embellishment. Just a double layer of pink cotton interlock jersey from my stash. I am doing some serious stash busting here. It is a test version to check the size and fit. This is a size M in tunic length, but I think it works just fine as summer dress.

I am not sure if the wrinkles in the front seam are caused by using too much tension in the seam. Well, it is still wearable.

The same is going on on the lower end of the side seam. Practice, practice, practice!

It was surprisingly fast to assemble this tunic. Not much to say about the pattern. I have read some reviews of the Alabama Chanin pattern where people complain about the low neckline. That doesn't apply to me. I see no problem there. I must have some lucky build. I hardly ever have to change any pattern.

My cretan stitch to attach the binding is getting more even, so yay!

Here another close up of the binding. 

Pattern Description:

Fitted top in different lengths - shirt, tunic, mini dress, long dress.
From the book 'Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing & Design'
 

Pattern Sizing:

S, M, L, XL
I made a size M
 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes
 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The book give very clear instructions. All the techniques are explained very clear and thoroughly.
 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love all the patterns from the book. Some people complain about the low neckline, I don't.
 

Fabric Used:

Cotton Interlock Jersey
 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

No changes
 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

This is a test version without any embellishments. I will sew this again with stenciling etc. I recommend it.

Coco Dress by Tilly and the Buttons

The moment Tilly announced her Coco dress pattern I fell in love with it. What a cute casual dress. I especially love the sixties style funnel neckline. It also offers a shirt version, two different sleeve lengths, and optional pockets.

For my first version I cut out a size 3, but I think next time I will go for a size 2. It runs a little bit, at least with this fabric. It is a cotton interlock from fabric.com.

Here is the back view. I wonder if it will less wrinkle in a smaller size. Or maybe I have to make an alteration on the pattern after all. 

This shows those wrinkles in the lower back area pretty good, too. 

I am in love with the funnel neckline. The perfect casual dress. And since it has only five pattern pieces it is super easy and quick to sew.Very good for beginners with knit fabrics. 

I can't say this enough: knits are not hard to sew with. In a way they are actually easier than some wovens. No finishing of the seams necessary. Very forgiving, especially when setting in a sleeve, because this can be done before sewing the side seams.

 It looks a bit different on my dress form since the form is not yet padded to my exact measurements.

A closeup of the funnel neck. Love!!! I see more Coco dresses in my future.

Pattern Description:
Breton top or knit dress with multiple variations. Simple to sew, Coco is easy fitting, with no zips, buttons or other fiddly bits.
Designed for low-stretch knit fabrics, this classic style features a boat neckline, choice of top or dress lengths, three quarter length or long sleeves, with side splits at the hips on the top version. Make it your own with optional sixties funnel roll neck, rolled cuffs and patch pockets.

Pattern Sizing:
1 (30" bust) to 8 (44" bust)
I made a size 3, but will move down to a size 2 next time

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy instructions. She has a sew-along on her website

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Nothing to dislike about this pattern. It has only 5 pattern pieces, no closures, and is very easy to fit. I love the many choices the pattern offers, and especially the sixty style funnel neck.

Fabric Used:
Cotton Interlock

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't make any alterations

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will absolutely sew it again, and highly recommend it.

Conclusion: 
Perfect pattern for beginners, very good choice to start sewing knits.

More Skater Dresses

Just in case you haven't noticed, I love the Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo

I've posted about this pattern in detail here.

So today just pictures of my two newest versions. The fabric is from Girl Charlee.

 Isn't this fabric awesome?!?!

I shortened the bodice 3/4 inch for this version and it fits much better now. Less crinkles in the back.

I always knew I am a trendsetter. Look at this.
Taylor Swift with fox shirt. Can't believe what a copycat she is!

Colette Truffle Dress

The Truffle Dress was the pattern I fell in love with first from the Colette Sewing Handbook. The version in the book is so cute. It was also the pattern I tried first after receiving the book for Christmas that year. I had just started sewing in September 2011, and so of course I made some stupid mistakes with this dress. It ended up laying around for over a year unfinished. But I finally finished it last September with help from my mom.

The fabric is Crepe Back Satin from JoAnn's. I was thinking about to play with the shiny and matte side of the fabric, but decided against it and used only the shiny side. I made a muslin of the bodice and the fit was spot on. But for some reason the bodice from the dress was gaping a lot in the back. Which was one of the reasons why it ended up in the UFO bin. 

The other mistake was using the wrong interfacing. At that point in my sewing adventures I had not clue whatsoever about different interfacings. I learned, mostly the hard way. The wrong choice of interfacing is not really visible, and the dress is for sure wearable.

The dress is fully lined with blue Rayon Bemberg. And of course after I set in the zipper and tried on the dress it ripped a hole in the lining. Zippers aren't exactly my friends. 

Finally last September I got around to open some seams and taking in the back of the bodice to get rid of the gaping. It still gapes a little, but it might be just me being too picky about it. It really isn't that bad. 

It is a cute dress, and I will attempt it again. Maybe a version without the drape in front. 

Pattern Description:

Dress with wide scoop neck, darted bodice, straight skirt with assymetrical flounce.

Pattern Sizing:

0 (33") - 18 (46"), I made a size 2

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very easy and detailed instructions in the Colette Sewing Handbook.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the flounce, and the fitted bodice.

Fabric Used:

Shell fabric: Crepe backed Satin
Lining fabric: Rayon Bemberg

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I had to take in the back an inch. No other alterations.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew it again, and recommend it.

Conclusion: 

A lovely dress that works with fancy fabric as well as with cotton. It is also cute without the drape on the skirt.

Skater Dress x3

And here they are, my Skater dresses. Because when I like a pattern I can't just make one. The pattern is by Kitschy Coo and you can find it here

It is a PDF pattern, so prepare for some printing and assembling. But it is well worth it!

This version is Crepe Jersey which I bought a year ago at Fabric.com. Anyone else annoyed about their new website?

 This fabric is from Denver Fabrics in Denver (not the website). It is a nice rather slinky jersey.

 

The Strawberry version. Heather Ross Briar Rose in Lilac. I am not sure if all that white doesn't look too much on me due to my rather fair skin tone. But I love the fabric. 

Here is a side/back view. 

Pattern Description:
This funky yet functional knit dress has a fitted bodice, scooped banded neckline, a curved flared knee-length skirt, and options for trimmed cap sleeves, or banded ¾ length sleeves or long sleeves. It's designed to flatter the figure with a waistline that hits at the natural waist and a skirt that gently skims over the lower waist and hips.

Pattern Sizing:
There are eight sizes included in the pattern, ranging from a 30” to 44” high bust, and a 24” to 38” high waist. I made a size 34"

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The PDF pattern comes with two different instructions. A long version with lots of photos and detailed instructions, and a short version without pics. Both very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used:
All three versions are cotton jersey.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn't make any alterations. In a next version I might shorten the bodice a bit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will sew it again, and highly recommend it to others. Great pattern for beginners with knit fabric.

Conclusion: 
A super easy and fast to sew dress. Very cute and flattering.

This is my favorite song right now. The whole CD is running constantly on my playlist.

In the making

A quick view of the two projects I am currently working on:

First one is the Cooper Bag from Colette Patterns. I love this version in waxed canvas.

I bought the kit from their new online shop Gifts for Crafters 

I like that the pattern offers three different takes on the bag. My first go will be version 1, the messenger bag.

So far I have finished the lining and the strap. I am still waiting for the tailors clapper to arrive so I can press the waxed canvas. As usual, Colette Patterns has excellent instructions. They also have a sew-along for all three versions of the bag on their blog. I am looking forward taking this bag with me on my Christmas vacation.

The second project is this wrap dress from Burda:

I made it before in the short version with cap sleeves. The fabric I am using is a dark purple strech poly silk charmeuse. 

I would have loved this fabric from Mood Fabrics

 Silk Crepe de Chine in crushed berry, but it was slightly out of my budget. Maybe next time.

Why am I making this dress? Because I can!

My second Monique dress

Just a couple of pictures of my second Monique Dress. You can read all about the first version with a review here.

I made both dresses within a week. In this second version I was able to finally tweak out the problem I had with the lining and the side seams not matching up.

The fabric is Whimsicol in Tide from Nordika by Jeni Baker

I love this border print! And my new red shoes ;)

I added black piping to accentuate the waistband.

Here a closeup of the piping.

 

And the inside of the dress. As with my first version I only lined the bodice. It's a 50/50 silk cotton blend.

Monique Dress by Sew Serendipity

It took me about a year to finish this dress, but finally it's done. I bought the pattern a year ago because I wanted a dress pattern designed for quilting cottons, and I immediately fell in love with her poppy version of this dress.

One of my favorite fabric designers is Anna Maria Horner, and when I saw this fabric I knew it had to be a casual summer dress. It's 'Turn of Events in Plum' from her Innocent Crush line.

 So why did it take me almost a year to finish this dress?

 After the pattern arrived I made the stupid mistake of not making a muslin. Turns out the pattern has a couple of errors in it. The darts don't line up as drawn on the pattern, and the front bodice is too long to fit on the back bodice on the side seams. It annoyed me so much finding that out after I cut into my nice fabric, that I just tossed it in a corner and didn't touch it anymore until a couple of days ago.

 

Luckily I had a lot of fabric left and just cut out the bodice part again. Since I don't like facings I decided to line the bodice with a 50/50 silk-cotton blend I had in my stash, and in the perfect matching color too. 

I also lengthened the bodice 1 1/4 inch. This pattern is designed for a 5.4" size and I am 5.7"

 I could have done a better job with the lining. Oh well, next time. The side seams still didn't match up, even after cutting the armhole of the front bodice piece bigger. That's why I had to serge the side seam, instead of having it encased in the lining.

Now that I tweaked out all the errors and fitting issues I am absolutely in love with this dress. I already made a second one which I will blog about later. 

Pattern Description:

The Monique Dress is a retro design with a fresh modern twist. Featuring a flattering neckline, raised waistline, and a full A-line skirt, this dress will make you feel so pretty! Options for a solid or pieced bodice and various fabric accents means you have a lot of opportunities to mix and mingle all sorts of fabrics. Add a dash of trim or a coordinating bit of fabric here and there and make your own unique creation!

Pattern Sizing:

Bust 32 - 44

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I didn't follow the instructions at all.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

After I got rid of the errors in the pattern I love it.

Fabric Used:
Main fabric: Quilting cotton
Lining: Silk cotton blend 50/50

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- lengthened the bodice 1 1/4"
- cut the armhole of the front bodice piece bigger so it would fit to the back bodice piece at the side seams
- moved the darts
- got rid of the facings by adding a lining to the bodice

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Now that I have a good fit I will absolutely sew it again. So many possibilities with all the wonderful quilting cotton prints.

Conclusion: 

I highly recommend making a muslin to figure out the errors in the pattern. After those errors are eliminated it is a wonderful pattern for a summer dress.