Cambie Dress No 3

My third Cambie dress is finished, and I already wore it out for dinner. Pictures of the other two versions are here and here.

The fabric is a buttery soft voile by Anna Maria Horner from her Little Folks collection. It's Baby Bouquet in Sweet. I just love her designs!!!

The construction of this dress was, as all Sewaholic patterns, very easy and straightforward. Did I mention that I am a big fan of Sewaholic patterns. I just finished the Lonsdale dress (blog post to follow) and have the Cordova Jacket pattern waiting in my pattern stash.

Here the back. Those wrinkles look weird, it must be the way I am standing. And the dress is a bit wrinkly because I had worn it once out and then it was hanging in my slightly stuffed closet.

I made a size 6 straight out of the envelope. No alterations needed.

My dress form modeling it. The fabric was a pleasure to work with. Especially thanks to my straight stitch needle plate and foot. 

Another back view.

I lined the dress with china silk which a bought at Dharma Trading. My new go to lining for about everything. 

I hand stitched the lining to the shell at the waistband with a slip stitch.

All seams of the skirt but the back seam are done in french seams. I bound the back seam which holds the zipper with Hug Snug rayon seam binding. This red is the only color I have. Gotta order other colors like black and white.

New Look 6244

I bought this pattern with a bunch of others a couple of weeks ago when Simplicity.com had a sale. For me this pattern falls in the category of "waste of money". The dress on the model looks so cute, and the technical drawing looks quite promising, but sewing this dress was a nightmare and the outcome not worth it.

I decided to make Front C with Back D. First mistake! Those two weren't meant to be together! I had my mind set on a piece of Voile I had in my stash. It's Anna Maria Horner's Little Folks Coloring Garden in Berry. Next mistake was to not put all pieces on the fabric before cutting. A mistake I never made before. Maybe I was too distracted by watching "Game of Thrones" while cutting fabric. 

 

Somehow I was able to fit all pattern pieces on the little bit of yardage I had. When I was finished I discovered that I had cut out the two front pieces in the same direction. I didn't have enough leftover fabric to correct that mistake, and it really isn't noticeable at all. But I know the right front piece is sewn with the left side showing, and it bothers me somewhat.

Since I was using this lightweight fabric I decided to use french seam throughout. Which turned out to be quite the task for those side inset pieces. The neckline and armholes are finished with a narrow hem. I should have made a muslin, because as it turned out I had to shorten the midsection by about 1 1/2 inch. Which I found out after sewing the bodice to the skirt with a french seam. Good times!!!

 

I don't like the loose sides around the waist, and how the fabric stands away in the back. How you can see in this side view picture. But I am done tweaking this dress. It will end up just being a casual summer dress. 

I am, however, very happy about the bias cut silk slip which is to be worn underneath the dress. It needs to be shortened a couple of inches, but that is a quick fix. I used 100% china silk. It was very easy to work with and feels amazing. The neckline stretched a bit, but since it will be worn under a dress who cares.

I was desperately looking for a fabric I could use as lining for all my lightweight and sheer fabrics, but couldn't really find anything affordable. In the past I lined my voile dresses with cotton lawn, but the two fabrics always cling together. And since I need a lot of yardage for lining I can't really afford buying white voile for $12/yard or other fancy silks. But then I discovered Dharma Trading online and they have a good selection of silk fabrics. I bought 15 yards of this lightweight china silk for a little over $6/yard. So far I have lined a couple of dresses with it and I absolutely love it.